Welcome! This Crashlands guide has grown extensively since I started it! There is TONS of information, so use the Topic buttons on the side to more easily navigate.

You'll find sections on monsters and attack strategies, boss fights & mechanics, crafting, farming, gathering, a resource watch list, and tips & tricks to help you progress with the game.

Have fun!

All three of these things go together, so it only seems right to put them in the same section.

Recipes can be found in multiple ways:

• Included with the Crafting Station
  
• Rewards from Quests or Boss defeats
  
• Killing monsters
  
• Deconstructing Resources
  
• Fishing

From my observations, recipes that are not bound to quests/bosses can be unlocked in ANY biome if the crafting station is unlocked.

For example: if you craft the latest Bawg station, then go back and explore the Savannah, it is VERY likely that you will discover recipes for this station while deconstructing resources/killing enemies.

If you find yourself at end-game missing recipes, look for Caarta's quests (he is in all three biomes), and any other side quests you missed. Also, take your Gulanti: it increases your chance to find Recipes, Eggs, and Legendary items by 150% on a fully upgraded pet.

Tips:

• It is helpful to align crafting stations in order in your base. This will allow you to more easily remember which is your "highest" level, for armor, etc. Also, you can see a definite progression in pet upgrades.
  
  
  Stations in the Bawg, ordered from left to right, and then a second row.
  
  
  
• Use the Track feature on the item info screen to help you keep track of how many ingredients you need for the item you want.
  
  
• Weapons & Armor: If you own a purple quality item, you may wish to skip the next level of crafting for that specific piece -- i.e. a purple level 7 piece of armor will be superior to a blue-or-below level 5 piece. Save your materials! Only toward the end of the Bawg, numbers go up much higher-per-level, and therefore you should craft replacements at all levels.
  
  
• Gadgets and Trinkets are unique, and at present, there are no "upgraded" versions. (I.e. there is a trinket that grants 20% fire resistance. There are none that give a greater percentage, even at end game). Thus, it is useful to craft these items as you find recipes for them.
  
  
• You are only allowed ONE of each Trinket. You may craft multiple of the same Gadget, however, if put on the hotbar, they share a cooldown, so there is no advantage to owning more than one.
  
  
• Generally, when you move to another biome, you will NOT need any but the last station you crafted. Materials will be different in the new biome.

• Note which ingredients you need for current, and future, Health Potions; remember or write them down. In this way, you can collect them ahead of time to be ready for later stages of the game.
  
  
• Make note of materials deposits on the map with signs. If you come across something new that you don't recognize, place a sign there. Normally, I put a sign if there are 3 or more "bushes/rocks" of a rare material. Also note where groups of monsters are -- their materials are also needed. I mark dirt piles with the drop icon.
  
  
  Signs denote rare materials & monsters.
  
  
  
• At the beginning of each play session, harvest wild materials -- they regenerate over time. (~2 hour interval). This is an excellent way to beef up your stock of rare materials that you've marked with signs.
  
  
• Notice that certain materials aggro certain mobs -- e.g. Glidopus target you whenever you harvest Whistleroot. Just remember, you don't have to kill all the mobs; simply harvest, (or get a tick or two in), then avoid the attack, then hit the resource one last time.

To speed up harvesting in the wild, there are a number of usable items:

• Harvest Bombs: several strengths available. They have a 2 square radius, meaning they will harvest everything in a 5x5 area if thrown in the middle "square".
  
  
• Trinket: Cleavebat: 75% chance to hit identical materials. The range is slightly larger than that of a harvest bomb -- 3 square radius. This is a HUGE time-saver! (When used in a farm situation, it is much faster than switching out a harvest bomb on your hotbar!)
  
  
• Trinket: Wealthy Statuette: 10% chance to double the amount of items gained in a single harvest. Useful if you are hunting rare materials.
  
  
• Trinket: Optimized Gamepad: 15% chance to boost run speed on breaking resources.
  
  
• Pet: Gallum: increases you chance to encounter Rare & Epic monsters by 150% on a fully upgraded pet. Great for harvesting essences to upgrade pets & craft certain items.
  
  
• Fishing: Create Fish Farms of 3x3 in large lakes; there is an item for each biome: Savanna: Fish Food, Bawg: Acidic Fish Food, Tundra: Frozen Fish Food.
  
  Grab the Nasty Lure Trinket (+40% size of school), and then a Fishing Buff. (Mark these on your map). Then, bombs away! A Chembobber (Savanna & Bawg), and a Fish Magnet (Tundra) will explode the fish out of all schools in a 3x3 area if you throw it in the center square. (It is unknown whether the Gulanti pet will help find rare items in fish schools, but doesn't hurt to take him along!)

• Initially, you will want to set out your Dirt (specific to each biome) in 5x5 squares.
  
  
• Use harvest bombs to harvest areas of soil quickly. A harvest bomb will deconstruct all plants in a 2-square radius, (5x5 area); a single bomb in the middle square will harvest all!
  
  
• Farming is generally seen as a quick influx of materials -- NOT a sustainable endeavour. (The chance on seed drops is too low).
  
  
• You will find that as you progress you will need many different materials, so there is no need to maintain a large farm with all crops planted. Example: once you progress to a larger healing potion, you will no longer need to harvest materials for the previous one.
  
  
• Farming is a fruitful effort, but make sure you plant crops and pots that provide items that you will use. Otherwise, one can waste a lot of time gathering items that will not be needed.
  
  
• Crops planted in soil blocks are normally one-time harvests. The exception is the Geysirs, (Tundra; which say in the item description "permanent").
  
  
• At the end of the day, when you plant your seeds, make sure they have been assimilated into the ground... otherwise, they will not grow if you exit the game.
  
  
• Potted plants will regenerate themselves over time, normally at 20 minute intervals after being picked. (Not harvestable with a Harvest Bomb).
  
  
• For most potted plants, you will never need more than 10 if you harvest them regularly.
  
  
• You can plant special crops, such as Jollychomp and Flungus, and one feeding will set off a chain reaction that will destroy all similar crops within a 1-block radius.

This section contains resource & crafting spoilers to help you progress as fast as possible. If you want to discover things on your own, skip this section.

In addition to the specific items outlined, Rare ingredients are in the lists -- these items are few and far between on the map, and it will save time if you collect them as you go. Mark them with signs and visit regularly! (They have a 2 hour spawn rate, so collect every time you log on). Once you move to the next biome, you can ignore these resources unless otherwise specified.

Generally: in your farm, plant seeds of items you need. Harvest with a Harvestbomb.

Logtrees and Sawgrass are highly useful, so pick up as much as you can. Both resources can be made into flooring... which can last you the entire game, (saving you time in future biomes). Also collect enough Whistleroot Reeds so that you can make Harvestbombs to harvest your Logtree and Sawgrass farms!

Signs = Sticks + Logs. Before I leave the Savannah, I make around 200 signs. These will last through the end of the game. Pick up all sticks.

Gravelbomb = Flatstone Gravel + Wompit Leather + Gunpowda (Glidopus Ink + Sawdust). These bombs will last you into mid-Tundra until you get to the easier-to-collect-for Pincushion Bomb. Depending on your difficulty level, you may need >300 bombs to get to that point, or maybe just 100. Stock up and have about 75 going into the Bawg. You can always return later when your tools/weapons improve so you can collect more efficiently.

Fish... a lot! Fatheaded Slurpers are used in the Stony Healing Potion, and the Dusky Healing Potion. Fish at every opportunity, especially with the Nasty Lure equipped. (Hopefully you will also get the Excellent Wobblygong while you are at it!)

Fish Food requires the Gassakmeister (Gassak plant), and is useful to build a large fish farm. Normally, you will ONLY need a fish farm to find the Excellent Wobblygong. (If you find it on your travels, don't bother with a farm).

Potted plants: the only thing worth collecting is Baconweed, which is used in the Mild HP potion, and the Elixer of Longevity. Craft 10 pots, and collect regularly (20 minute intervals).

ALWAYS pick up/deconstruct:

• Sticks
  
• Flatboulders (Gravel)
  
• Glidopus (Ink)
  
• Fishing Holes
  
• Gassak (Gassakmeister)
  
• Giant Fossilized Femur - rare
  
• Night Glotus - rare
  
• Straddlebark - rare

Deconstruct LOTS of:

• Logtress (Logs, Sawdust)
  
• Glidopus (Ink, Siphon)
  
• Dusk Crystals - semi-rare
  
• Walker Blossom - rare

Collect Bloos by the masses! They are fed to Jollychomps, and later used in Thrombyte Fibrins.

Jolly Fulmars are rare and essential for many recipes, including Furdle Blulch, so feed the Jollychomps along the way, especially if they are in groups of 2-3: one Bloo will explode both! (See the Farming Section to experience the amusement of Jollychomp farms).

Bleghpod: used in Bleghmar Treats, Blegh Healing Potion, and other items. Pick up every one you see!

Blood Louse: found in the Artree, needed for lots of specialty items including the Bloodbomb, Mini-Dirigible, and other Trinkets.

Bawg Hair should be harvested for the Hairbark that goes into the Grenamel Healing Potion.

When you are asked to build the Thrombopump, use it right at that location. It will be difficult to find a closer/more convenient Thrombyte to place it on, and will save you the resources to construct a second one. (However, if you wish to add the Thrombyte addition to your Data screen, you MUST place a Thrombopump on a different Thrombyte than in the quest).

As in the Savannah, Fish, Fish, Fish! Harder in the Bawg, since Fishing Holes are more scarce, fish until you have the Excellent Jackagong.

Acidic Fish Food = Ayeaye + Snorble Uvula + Luminalgae.

Potted plants: Plant 10 Tuskers, and 10 Pyns. Tuskers are used in the Blegh Healing Potion, while Pyns are needed for the Chembobber

ALWAYS pick up/deconstruct:

• Bloo
  
• Bleghpod - rare
  
• Pikkaye (Ayeaye)
  
• Artrees (Blood Louse)
  
• Pyn - rare
  
• Tuber - rare
  
• Bone Spur (Spur Gold) - rare

Deconstruct LOTS of:

• Jollychomp (Jolly Fulmar)
  
• Bawg Hair

Smashblossoms are needed for TONS of items, and in great quantity. E.g. a single potted plant requires 9 Smashblossom Trunks!

Pick up as many Parapods as you can as you go along, and lots of Spireggs in the beginning of your Tundra experience.

Geysirs -- you can never have too many diamonds! Deconstruct all within your view... then plant ~10 in a permanent farm.

Keep your Slurrifier running -- you will need TONS of Karboan. By the time you get to the Slurrifier technology, you won't need Parapods for anything else but Slurry Processing.

Magmite Mounds -- deconstruct ALL of them -- ingredients are needed for the top-level healing potion.

Again, Fish! Fish until you have the Excellent Bonkagong.

Pipey Healing Potion = Pipedirt Pipes + Magmite Worker.

Make the Cleavebat (Foundry) ASAP. It will assist you in harvesting resources much faster. I only wish it was available sooner!

As before, fish all you can until you get the Excellent Bonkagong.

Potted plants: Plant 30 Parapods, 5 Hard Core, 10 Ice Quills. Parapods are used in Slurry Processing, and Ice Quills go into Oilbags. If you have NOT created the Megagong Lure before you get the potted Bunnions, plant 10. Otherwise, just collect for the Bunnion quest.

ALWAYS pick up/deconstruct:

• Icequill ( -> Oilbags)
  
• Crystine
  
• Magmite Mound - rare
  
• Bunnion - rare
  
• Depressurized Larva (pink worm) - rare
  
• Liquideon (orange slime) - rare

Deconstruct LOTS of:

• Smashblossom (Smashblossom Trunk)
  
• Bluff (Bluff Fluff) - rare
  
• Pipedirt (Pipdirt Pipe)

Pets are obtained through the crafting table as a craftable item: nest + specific egg. The egg is found by killing mobs of the specific monster type, and has a small drop percentage rate. You may only have one pet of each type.

As you upgrade/"embiggen" your pet it increases their DPS, and also upgrades their passive bonus. (Check the Stats->Data page for bonuses of each pet).




Pet upgrade recipes are provided in the following ways:

• Crafting Stations: a few come with the station when you build one.
  
• Quests: a few are from side quests.
  
• Killing mobs/deconstructing resources: this is where the majority of pet upgrade recipes are found. As soon as you unlock the appropriate crafting station, the recipe has a chance to drop.

Not ALL upgrades may be available in the biome where the pet is found. For example, all Savanna pets can be upgraded to level 2 by the end of the Savannah, but ONLY the Wompit can be upgraded to level 3. The rest of the recipes will be found in the Bawg, and this applies to later pets, recipes for which can be found in the Bawg and Tundra.

How can you tell if you've found a recipe or not? If you have found most recipes for the crafting tables, you can guess. Tier 2 upgrades will have a blue border; tier 3 a purple border. If there is a blue- or purple- bordered greyed-out square, there is a possibility that you haven't discovered the upgrade yet. If there are NO MORE greyed-out squares in the station, you have found all the recipes for that station. Therefore, you need to look at the next station, or the next biome.

(Also keep in mind that there are weapons, trinkets, etc. that have blue or purple borders, so they may not be pet upgrades).

Your choice of pet is crucial to effciently killing mobs. Because each of us has a different play style, you may want to try out different pets to see what works best for you. You are only permitted to use one pet at a time.



When choosing your pet, note that their attack is the same style as the mob. This is especially important to consider because certain pets are better at hitting slow-moving/stationary mobs, whereas others are better hitting fast-moving enemies.

Here are my favorite pets to use:

Savannah

• Wompit -- Best overall pet for the Savannah. When you kite mobs together, circling around them, the Wompit will stomp ALL of them at the same time.

Bawg

• Vomma -- Extremely efficient attack for the same reasons as the Wompit above. Huge amount of AOE damage.

Tundra

• Vomma -- Still a great choice. Great at hitting both stationary and moving enemies, as long as they are kited properly.
  
• Satgat -- A VERY efficient pet, especially when upgraded. It's passive bonus is better than the Vomma's, IMO, and mobs in the tundra tend to have electric vulnerability.

Other pets ARE useful... here, I will divide them into two groups, based on ATTACK style, (not passive bonus). These were tested against high-end fast mobs like Slurbs, etc. Many of these have native elemental attacks whick can cause damaging debuffs to the enemies (burning, shock, etc.) Generally, pets in the "Not-so-Useful" list were too slow for fast mobs, their attacks missed, or had limited range, (the mobs moved out of the way).

Useful Attackers:

• Wompit -- The attack is fast enough to hit most mobs, though care should be taken to kite them where you want them to be.
  
• Vomma -- Charge-up-to-hit time seems relatively shorter than other pets, and the area of coverage of the multiple projectiles makes this a prime pet for damage.
  
• Satgat -- It's electrical charges almost "magically" hit mobs; it's two attacks decimate enemies.
  
• Wojack -- Seems to spring up right under the mobs, and the extra missles are bonus damage.
  
• Bamli -- The head-dive hits decently, but the real treasure is in the electrical orbs which swarm the attack arena.
  
• Slurb -- These bouncy pets do a fair amount of damage, especially when they bounce multiple times: the secondary bounces hit near-instantly on fast-moving mobs.
  
• Lyff -- These are fairly decent hitters as well, targeting in a very similar fashion to the Vomma, though they use less projectiles.
  
• Gulanti -- Their "propeller" attack is devastating to mobs... if you can keep them in range. The secondary attack is also fairly useful, and I found this a decent all-around pet to go treasure hunting with, (passive bonus).

Situation-Dependent Attackers:

• Tartil -- good ONLY for fire-elemental damage, as their charge-up time is so long. Fast-moving mobs will escape.
  
• Blastcrab -- see Tartil.

Not-so-useful Attackers:

• Glutterfly -- Might be all-right if you absolutely need a poison sttack, but most shots miss moving mobs.
  
• Glidopus -- Only OK on stationary mobs like tartils. DPS output seems low.
  
• Wat -- Charge up is too long -- by the time it flies, the mob has already moved out of the way.
  
• Zug -- Projectiles take too long to emerge -- not superbly effective.
  
• Throak -- Although the attack looks similar to the Vomma's, the ground spikes take too long to materialize, missing most of the mobs.
  
• Snorble -- Single-directional shots often hit air, since fast-moving mobs have already moved out of the way.
  
• Shirk -- Like the Glidopus -- only good on completely-still mobs.
  
• Glaser -- Laserbeam moves too slowly to be useful on any but most immobile of mobs.
  
• Gallum -- After playing extensively with this pet in order to capitalize on its passive bonus, I observed that the DPS output is incredibly low, even when it does hit mobs.

Generally, Weapons & Armor should be upgraded as soon as possible with higher tier items of good quality.




Note: ALWAYS craft your new weapon first if possible -- your weapon is the only item that affects your DPS, which affects your bombs, gadgets, and most importantly, pet damage!

Note: every time you craft, you have a chance to get a different quality item! The range (from low to high) is White, Green, Blue, and Purple. Thus, if your crafting "rolls" bad stats, you can recycle the item and craft again. You can also craft Legendary Orange items, which have a fixed set of stats.

The higher the quality, the more stat slots there are.

You always want to use the BEST item. Sometimes that means keeping a purple tier 13 item instead of replacing it with a white/blue tier 15 item.

Pay close attention to:

• Health Regen
  
• Vampire Percentage
  
• Critical Strike Chance
  
• Resistance to Poison, Fire, Electricity, etc.
  
• Speed Boost

Reflected Damage sounds good on paper, but you have to get hit before it works.... thus limiting its usefulness.

These are items that give you passive bonuses. They range from boosting resistences to increasing numbers of fish in a school, adding chance to add elemental damage, etc.

Many times, you will want to choose an item that goes with your set of armor -- e.g. to boost the percentage chance to poison the enemy, etc. These bonuses add up!

If you are having difficulty with a quest mob or other strong enemy, check out their strengths and weaknesses on the Data page, and tailor your Trinkets accordingly.



Personally, I choose:

• Health Regen (Baconband)
  
• Critical Strike (Safety Gogs)
  
• 2 others that have elemental damage types, depending on the mobs in the area.

If my character is very strong for the zone, I will swap out one of the two last ones for the fishing trinket.

Later in the game, I focus on pet stats & run speed:

• Clarm: increases pet damage by 20% (Tundra)
  
• Searchlight: Increases pet's crit chance by 20%
  
• Motivator: increases move speed by 15% when health is low

Which gadgets & items you choose is going to depend on your playstyle. Dying annoys me, so I sometimes use two slots for two types of healing items. (Each item has it's own cooldown, so you can use two simultaneously).

Consider:

• Bombs have an AOE effect, and damage is linked to your DPS.
  
• The mini-dirigible allows you to move slightly faster and float for 10 seconds. (Good for escaping and also traversing rivers/ponds, etc.
  
• Damage items. I am particularly fond of the Fingerang item, since it can hit/aggro mobs over water. It also applies a Bleed effect. In the Tundra, also use the Laser Leash for killing mobs of mobs.
  
• Harvesting "bombs". Useful for your farm & clusters out in the wild.
  
• Big Red is great for semi-stationary mobs/bosses

Note that healing items have their own cooldowns. Unprocessed resouces have a much longer cooldown than ones that have been made into potions. Also remember to change to higher-HP potions when your armor increases in strength -- otherwise, you may have to use 10 tiny potions to heal to max!

Also be aware that Elixers (long buffs) can be activated from the character inventory screen, with no need to actually put them on the bar. Here, it also hows how much time they have left.



Caption: The Mini Dirigible allows you to float over water.

• Make sure to kit out your character BEFORE you go into battle with all the weapons, trinkets, gadgets & potions you will need. You cannot open your inventory or teleport away when you are engaged with an enemy. This is especially pertinent in boss fights -- activate your elixers before going in!
  
• Bombs are linked to your DPS, so it is worth harvesting (easy) materials from a biome or two lower than your current. For example, materials for Gravel Bombs, (which deal 200% of your DPS), can be harvested very easily from the Savannah, and are applicable through the entire game. Stock up!

** Thank you to ehyder for these additions!

There are a few things common to all monster types:

• Mobs show you their level by size and color. Small mobs are weaker, and on the first level, they get slightly bigger and stronger until they reach the next breakpoint, at which point they change color. The top level is also yet another color. These are the mobs that drop needed essences, but be aware that they are STRONG! (Example: Wompits: Low levels are grey of differeing sizes. 2nd tier: blue-ish grey, ("Sterling"), and 3rd tier is red with a white skull and red glowing eyes ("Blood" level).
  
  
• Each monster type will drop an egg for you eventually. Note, it is NOT necesary to have the appropriate crafting table built or unlocked to collect the egg for a species.
  
  
• At night, stronger monsters come out. In the beginning of the game, AVOID them!
  
  
• A monster MUST be attacked before your pet will attack it. Even if the mob is aggroed and attacking you, you MUST hit it before you pet will make a move. I like to use a ranged gadget to hit the first mob. Also note that at some point, your pet will "forget", so you need to hit the mob again. Same applies with mobs in a group -- they each need to be hit as the current target dies.
  
  
• Because of the nice auto-loot collect feature, when you start to become very strong, you can hit a monster & let your pet kill it while you are across the screen gathering resources.
  
  
• The game is very forgiving. You can almost always outrun mobs if you don't think you can successfully kill them. The same goes for exploration -- it's never necessary to kill things as you go along.
  
  
• Monsters are generally peacful; only some aggro you when you walk very near them. However, they do respond to things in their environment: deconstruction of specific resources near them will often aggro a mob. Example: Glidopi will almost always aggro if you harvest whistleroot. (The plants' propinquity to water make them a "cared-about" material for the Glidopus.) Other plants/materials have similar effects on specific mobs.

Hitting multiple monsters at the same time is easy with the right pet choice. I recommend a Wompit at the beginning, switching to a Vomma when you get one.

Kiting monsters into a small area will allow your pet to hit all of them at once.

Gadgets are also incredibly useful. My favorites:

The Laser Leash is great when you can get mobs in a straight line -- like with Slurbs, Blastcrab, or other mobs that follow you.




Big Red is fantastic for clearing lower-level mobs, or ones that don't move around much.



Bombs of various types also use AOE damage. Some have elemental types, and ALL are linked to your overall DPS. Choose upgraded versions as you are able.

Stick to one type -- early on, or if you are playing on higher difficulties, choose groups with the same types of monsters. If you choose a mixed group, it will be harder to predict their firing patterns.

The beginning of the game... what adventures you shall have!

Initially, you will not have any pet available, so dodging attacks and being able to get in for a hit is CRITICAL.

Generally: Enemies will show you their line/area of attack. You want to be OUT of the red zone when they come charging down.

These guys are a bouncy sort -- they jump in the air and then land where the red circle is. For low-level mobs, you'll want to get JUST OUTSIDE the circle, then rush in for a hit or two, then back away again.

High-level mobs may jump more than once -- be careful so you don't get squashed! Multi-jumps tend to be preceded by a slightly-shorter-than-normal charge-up.




The Glutterfly has two different attacks: one which sends a single projectile in a straight line, and the second, three in a fan shape. CAREFUL: the projectiles are poison balls which give you a poison debuff. (You will continue to lose health over time until the debuff expires).

The best way to combat this mob is to hit it from behind when it is making its attack.




Until I observed these for a bit, they were maddening to try to kill! Normally found near water, the Glidopus glides along the ground in its specified rectangle -- normally aimed toward the player. To kill these little beasties, go to the END of the glide path and wait for the mob to arrive. Hit it a couple of times, then get out of the way while it chooses the next path. After a while, an easy rhythm can be realized.

Note that the secondary attack is characterized by a longer rectangle, and has a shorter charge-up time than the standard attack. With this attack, the Gliodopus spreads an electrical charge along the glide path.




Little tar monsters... how cute! Sort of... Found near tar pits, these critters launch mortars into the air toward a circle generally in your direction. A smaller circle indicates that the mortar will set the ground on fire when it lands (giving you a burning debuff). A larger circle indicates that the mortar will simply explode in the area. Once you see either circle, sneak behind the mob and attack before it regroups.




These bat-like creatures have a very similar style of attack to the Glidopus -- they have a fly-path which they go to the end of before stopping. As with the Glidopus, wait at the end of the path to strike! Of course, sometimes the Wats vary their attack and add a poison splash circle at the endpoint! (If you are hit, you'll get a poison debuff). However, even staying at the outer rim of this circle, there is usually time to sneak in 1 hit before it flies again.




Turtle-esque creatures, the Zug stand motionless and attack by shooting electric spheres toward the player. These spheres fly around, with a large AOE diameter, following you as you run around. Note that they travel faster than your normal walk speed!

The secondary Zug attack is an electric AOE around their bodies, after which they move to another position.

The second area you will explore in the game has some very different monsters!

This monster will not engage you unless you have already attacked it. Early on, you can kill (small) ones outright by feeding the Jollychomp plants if they are very close by. The resulting explosion will net you the Vomma & plant loot!

Otherwise, the Vomma launch 3-5 missles into the air, which appear as red circles on the ground. It is imperative that you get a hit in so your pet can attack -- the interval between mob attacks is very short. The mobs tend to stay put and don't move around. Run around the creature, avoiding the red circles, getting a hit in with your boomerang when you can.




These sneaky little things will pop up under your feet! They burrow underground -- so hit them at their entry point. A red circle indicates their exit -- move to the edge and you can get a hit in when they surface. Also watch for their missles -- they pop up and then launch a volley! (Higher level mobs launch more frequent/more damaging volleys).




This mob create spikes that shoot from the ground -- usually about 4-5 that take a moment before coming up to damage you. You should avoid these, and circle back around to hit the mob while there is a small break in the attack. The secondary attack creates a ring of these spikes around the mob. If you get it hit, you'll receive a movement-slowing debuff! Watch the Throak carefully -- His body touches the ground when he is preparing an attack.




These mobs rotate irregularly between two different attacks. Usually they will start by launching a single missle in a straight line, three times, the trajectory following your movements. Then comes the cone of several projectiles. Sometimes, the cone of missiles will repeat itself two or three times.

When the single shot indicator is active, constantly run around. When the cone is active, stand opposite it, and whack away at the monster's head.



This mob also has two attack types. The first is a propelled ball which is aimed at you; when fired, it travels in a circle back to the mob. The second attack is a launched mortar (its hat!) which creates a circle on the ground. When a second circle appears in the center, it means that the hat is on it's way -- run!

When you avoid the ball, make sure you aren't in its return path. Stay away from the large mortar circle! You can circle around the red zone, and hit the mob from the side.



I'm surprised this monster doesn't complain more about headaches, the way it goes after our characters! The Bamli has two attacks, the primary of which (A) is a launch up into the air, and head-first dive into the ground. This creates a large red circle on the surface, which follows you around until the last second, when you are able to walk out of it.

The secondary attack (B) creates a smaller red circle. This is the more dangerous attack because in addition to the fall, several damaging electric spheres are released. On higher level mobs, the secondary attack causes the mob to instantly zap to the circle's location, putting your character at risk.

This becomes a VERY easy mob to kill once you learn its pattern: on the primary attack (big circle), stand outside the circle, and leap in after the monster crashes down. You have time for at least 2 hits, possibly three. If the secondary attack is active (small circle), keep walking away to allow the electric spheres to clear.

The feel of snow falling on your face, cold nipping at your nostrils! This is the land where resources fight back! It's Snow Time!

Found just about everywhere, but primarily on the golden grass/grey rock areas, these birdies possess a combination of Glidopus and Zug attacks. Their primary attack is to move in a straight line, damaging you along the way. As with the glidopus, move to the end of the glide path and get in a hit when it reaches the endpoint.

The secondary attack is simply an electical AOE that emanates from its body in a small circle around the mob -- very easy to avoid. Note that the Shirk closes its eyes before starting this type of attack.




Another creature of the golden grass/grey rock areas, these moose-esque mobs have two different attacks. The primary is a laser that emanates from the body and travels around (toward the player) in a long line. The laser is damaging along the entire line, though the length is fixed. The best strategy for avoiding this is to stay very close to the body, as the run distance is much shorter nearer the central point than away from it. This enables you to attack the creature from behind. (Worst-case, you can run out of range of the laser, though you'll miss out on hits).

The secondary attack is a laser that points to a circular area on the ground. In this case, simply run around to avoid the circle, getting in a hit when you can. The circle laser moves much slower than the radiant one, and becomes larger with higher level mobs.




Slurbs can be found on the reddish/pale gray rocky areas in the center of some iced-over areas. Slurbs' pattern of attack is such that they target you with a red circle, which moves as you move, then bounce up to three more times as you run away from them. The easiest way to combat these guys, I have found, is to kite them in a circle where your pet will do damage, (note the blue combat range on the ground). When you get to that point, a mass kill is possible using the Laser Leash, which is very effective.

Note that Slurbs' damage also includes a Poison debuff, which will damage you over time.




Lyffs live in the iced-over areas near Geysir and Flailtree spawns. These critters attack very much like a Vomma, generating several projectiles at a time. They yell & wiggle their tongues just before generating new danger circles on the ground, firing 2-4 projeciles into the same area. The easiest way to attack is to stand just outside the circles' range, then sneak in a hit after the projectiles hit the ground, just as the Lyff is yelling! (Note: if you get hit by a projectile, it will give you a movement-slowing debuff.



You can see their hard shells on the golden grass/grey rock areas during the day, but they are only attackable at night. The Blastcrab has a combination attack: first, you see a firey AOE attack centered around the body of the crab, which launches the monster upwards, and then the crab comes hurtling down into a new (smaller) red circle. Strategy: stand just outside the small circle, and get 1-2 hits in after it lands.

These guys are super easy to kill with the Laser Leash, as you can aggro a number of them, and they will follow you in a straight line -- a perfect kill for the beam from the Laser Leash!




These seem to be a mechanized form of life that lives within the green crystal patches. Their attack consists of charging up, laying three danger circles on the ground, then splitting into the three pieces, electrifying the entire zone of circles with a different piece of themselves. Note: only the "body" piece (identitifed by the health bar) is attackable; hitting the head/feet while disassembled has no effect.




The Gulanti hang out on the blue crystal areas of the Tundra. There are two attack types on these electrical beasties. The first is a placement of several electrical orbs, after which the Gulanti zaps an electrical charge between its body and the orbs. The orbs stay on the ground to damage you as it launches its secondary attack. This attack is shaped like a propeller that rotates around the body of the mob, going either clockwise OR counter-clockwise!

Keep your distance from these guys and let your pet do the work!

General Tips:

• Use as many types of potions as you can. They have effects from mitigating elemental damage to regenerating health to adding elemental damage on your own attacks.
  
  
• Stock PLENTY of bombs. Because of limited Action Bar slots, it is more useful to have TONS of one type of bomb than small amounts of different types of bombs.
  
  
• Use pet food to increase your pet's DPS. (Anger Omelette is your friend).
  
  
• Use Trinkets that will play to your advantage: use pet damage boost ones, speed boost, elemental resistence, etc.
  
  
• In your action bar, have: Bombs, Health Potion, Ranged Weapon, Optional Item. (Use a Dbot for survivability, or a Laser Leash, etc.)
  
  
• Pets will allow you to kill the boss MOST EASILY. All you need to do is stay out of the way.
  
  
• Upgrade your pet to the highest level possible: each upgrade gives it more DPS.
  
  
• MAKE SURE you hit the boss again after each "talking" period: these intervals cause your pet to stop attacking.
  
  
• Dbot is your friend, attacking bosses, or even mobs. Use his invincibility powers to become impervious to a cluster of red circles. If you are poisoned, activate Dbot and you will stop taking damage. (Pop a healing potion duing this time!)
  
  
• Don't be like villians on TV! When you see a long red path, move to the SIDE, instead of running to the end of it...
  
  
• Some of the side-quest boss arenas are located in the open-world. Kill mobs AROUND the arena before you start the battle so that they don't add extra complication.
  
  
• (Out of battle), opening your Inventory (R) or pausing the game PAUSES countdowns on your elixers, AND they survive through death. Thus, if you fail a boss fight, you can easily sleep to regen and hop right back into the arena without wasting another set of potions.
  
  
• Technical: if your screen is "stuttering" or lagging because of taking screenshots, etc., simply hit Escape to Pause to let the comptuer "catch up". FPS should resume as per normal when you Resume.

Note: All strategies & loadouts are based on playing the game on Insane difficulty. Also, to have all trinkets/gadgets/potions available, I played through all side quests before attacking the bosses. Therefore, the loadout was the same for all.

Loadout:

• Trinkets: Safety Gogs, Beakler, Davy Lamp, Grounder
  
• Armor/Weapon: Dusk-level items + The Butterfly
  
• Action Bar: Gravelbomb, Dusky Healing Potion, Fingerang, Dbot
  
• Potions used: Elixer of: Anti-venom, Venom, Spood Beast, Longevity, Slashing, + Anger Omelette
  
• Pet: Level 3 Wompit.

The Baconweed Fairy the first boss in the game, accessed through a side quest. (I ran through the bosses at the END of my Savanna run through, so that is why I used higher-level armor, etc.)

Attacks:

• Primary Attack: Mortar bombardment with many missles.
  
• Secondary Attack: Baconfairy jumps in the air, then dives back into the ground.
  
• Regen: He takes a "Bacon Nap" which will restore some health.
  
• Next Stage (75% Health): Shoots several rockets which swarm around the screen.
  
• Next Stage (25% Health): Shoots a spiral of blue orbs.

Strategy: (Insane difficulty)
Note that the Baconweed Fairy continues using ALL previous types of attacks during later stages.

The Baconweed Fairy's Primary and Secondary attacks are pretty easily avoided. Make sure you have attacked with a Fingerang or other ranged weapon to keep your pet attacking. The Baconweed Fairy will also take a "Bacon Nap" Periodically. Interrupt this by attacking! Otherwise, the Baconweed Fairy will gain some amount of health back.


Attack: Mortar Bombardment



Regen: Bacon Nap


At 75% health, he will shoot rockets around, one at a time until there are around 4-5 swarming around the screen. These are not attackable, you must just wait for them to dissipate. Avoid if possible. A single or even double hit is possible to heal out of... but if more than that are coming your way, use your Dbot to gain invincibility.


Attack: Missles


At 25% health the Baconweed Fairy adds a spectacular attack of blue orbs, which spiral around him. Run in a curved path toward the outer edge. At this distance, the orbs become far enough away from each other that you can pass between them.


Attack: Spiral orbs


Prize: Defeating the Baconweed Fairy nets you the recipe for the Baconweed Band, which is a trinket that heals you for 0.25% of your health every second. (You also get a recipe for the Scarecrow furniture item).


The coveted Baconband!



Baary is reachable through the Maarla/Cultist Compound series of side-quests.

Attacks:

• Primary Attack: Vine growth -- stationary vines which deal damage around them.
  
• Secondary Attack: Mortar bombardment.
  
• Next Stage (85% Health): Poison Glide

Strategy:
Baary's attacks start off with Vine Growth -- coming into contact with the red circles around them will damage you. I had trouble with pet attacks in the beginning of the fight -- I hit him several times, but my pet would not attack while he was in close proximity to the "corn lamps". After he moved, my pet attacked as normal. (Not sure if this is intentional or a bug. Baary also launches large volleys of mortars which come crashing down. Get in hits when you can, otherwise, avoid the attacks.


Attack: Vine Growth + Bombardment


The Poison Glide came at about 85% of health. Baary creates a glide path (like a Glidopus), which leaves an area of poison behind for several seconds. At the end of his glides, (usually 3-4), he stops for a moment. This is the best opportunity to get hits in, and your pet can stomp away. After this attack, he usually starts the pattern again.


Attack: Poison Glide


Accidental encounters with the poison added a debuff that drained my health significantly. A quick use of the Dbot allowed me to avoid damage while healing up to full.

Prize: Shockprod (Trinket: 10% chance to deal electrical damage), Mercurial Batshoes (Trinket: +5% movement speed), Evil Eye (furniture).



Hewgodooko (Hewgo) is the end-of-biome boss which you encounter at the end of the main quest. You MUST defeat him in order to progress with the game.

Attacks:

• Primary Attack: Slow Laser which moves around the floor lazily.
  
• Secondary Attack: Tri-Laser: three beams from the body which rotate in clockwise OR counterclockwise direction.
  
• Next Stage (75% Health): Minions which move around the screen and shoot lasers directly below themselves.
  
• Next Stage (25% Health): Hewgo jumps around the arena.

Strategy:
The primary attack is pretty easy to avoid: the laser moves very slowly and has a small area of attack. The secondary attack is more deadly -- three lasers rotate around Hewgo's body either clockwise or counterclockwise, at random. Stay close to the center, as the run distance is shorter. It is even possible to strike Hewgo with your melee weapon as you travel around the circle. Make sure he is under attack by your pet at all times! (Use your ranged weapon or a bomb to keep your pet interested).


Attack: Slow Laser



Attack: Tri-laser


At 75% health, Hewgo launches groups of minions -- groups of 4 each, up to 12 on the screen at one time! Watch out -- they move fast! The easiest way to avoid these is to run around in a circle around Hewgo. The most dangerous situation to find yourself in is a group of minions and a tri-laser at the same time... and you are running in the wrong direction! Use your Dbot instantly!


Attack: Minions


Make sure your pet is constantly attacking. At 25% health, he'll add another attack, which simply adds another dimension to the attack pattern: he jumps around the screen several times. The only challenge this poses is that he changes the center of the attack space. Note: he jumps to YOUR position, so don't stay too close to the walls, or he may reposition himself dangerously close to a wall, which you cannot pass by when the tri-lasers start up again!


Attack: Jump


Prize: Unlock the next biome! WooHoo!

Note: This is a work-in-progress. I am adding to this guide as I do my second play-through on Insane Difficulty.

Note: All strategies & loadouts are based on playing the game on Insane difficulty. Also, to have all trinkets/gadgets/potions available, I played through all side quests before attacking the bosses. Therefore, the loadout was the same for all.

Loadout:

• Trinkets: Mercurial Batshoes, Medicine Bag, Davy Lamp, Grounder
  
• Armor/Weapon: Level 23 items (Grenamel) + The Blood Root
  
• Action Bar: Gravelbomb, Grenamel Healing Potion, Fingerang, Dbot
  
• Potions used: Elixer of: Bulging Biceps, Fireproofing, Anti-venom, Veonom, Spood Beast, Longevity, Slashing, Sprints, + Anger Omelette, Bleghmar Treat
  
• Pet: Level 3 Vomma.

Reached through a side-quest, he hangs out at Haast Spirit Grounds.

Attacks:

• Primary Attack: Giant Blue Balls
  
• Primary Attack: X of Doom
  
• Next Stage (50% Health): Multiplication

Strategy:
Ynnix greets you with Giant Blue Balls, which he launches directionally, targeting you. They lazily follow you around the screen, and 2-3 can be operational at once. They soon disappear. This is the easiest phase during which to attack with your Fingerang and/or bombs.




Next, an X of Doom is sure to appear. Ynnix "spins", as he follows you around the screen. Four lines of red balls come from the corners of the screen. Go in a cardinal direction, (North, South, East, West), and you will generally be safe. (Though sometimes a single ball will come in the direction you go).




At around 50% health, Ynnix adds a new type of attack -- he multiplies himself by three, and each figure shoots tiny blue orbs at you, creating a bit of a chaos. Stay out of the way -- this stage is quite short.




Prize: Weakness Detector (Trinket: Increases Critical Strike Damage by 25%), Swapscope (Gadget: Allows you to swap places with your pet).



Reached from one of the side quests from Jak, Grandmammy's associate. (Toomah's Cove).

Attacks:

• Primary Attack: Mortars.
  
• Primary Attack: Giant Lilypads - grow large after they are planted.
  
• Next Stage (~50% Health): Flashing Bugs (blue & purple) give chase.
  
• Next Stage (~40% Health): Flying Beetles which shoot directional globs.

Strategy:
What starts off simply enough soon becomes a maelstrom of activity! Toomah shoots mortars here and there, which are generally simle to avoid. However, Giant Lilypads begin to grow and soon take up a huge portion of the screen. Sometimes there are 5-6 of them! Make sure you put your Fingerang to good use, and bombs as well!


A Mortar falls as a Giant Lilypad begins to grow.



Lilies take up a lot of space!


At around 50% health, Flashing bugs appear, and try to chase you down, (damage-on-touch). These ARE attackable. Use bombs to keep them at bay.


Flashing bugs at right.

The next stage brings Flying Beetles into the picture. They are NOT targetable, so concentrate on avoiding them. The most difficult thing about this battle is just avoiding all the flying debris and the huge lilypads on the ground... and still being able to hit Toomah every once in a while to keep your pet attacking.




I recommend a strategy of either running in a circle around Toomah, or a U-shape, (like a smiley mouth), in front of him. Just keep moving!

Prize: Clawbox (Trinket: 10% chance to bleed), BloodBall (Trinket: 5% on melee attack to steal HP from enemy).

Reachable from the Threshers' side questline

Attacks:

• Primary Attack: Green globs (mortar).
  
• Primary Attack: Fire Breath which creates a persistent fire pool.
  
• Next Stage (50% Health): Quick glide.
  
• Next Stage (50% Health): Minions that shoot direction globs.

Strategy:
In the first stages, Jessica will be extremely easy to fight: her green globs, (shot as mortars), will hit one circle on the ground. She adds a fire breath attack, her mouth opened wide, and shoots a flame to a far location. It burns on the ground for several seconds.


Green Globs.



Fire Breath charge up & pool of fire.


The easiest method of attack is to use your Fingerang and Bombs. EACH SEGMENT takes damage from these weapons, so if you are fast enough, you can launch your boomerang, move around the screen, and have it hit her twice in one throw. Melee is NOT recommended. Let your pet do the dirty work!

At 50% health, Jessica roars and slides along the ground like a Glidopus. Step to the SIDE. Do not try to outrun her -- she is fast!




Minions also join the fray at this point. They appear out of small orange eggs on the ground, look like squiggly plants, and shoot orange globs at you. They disappear fairly quickly.

At very low health, Jessica's segments will diminish.


Low in segments & in health.


Note: Juicebox recommends fire attacks. Unsure if fire is more effective or not. Will investigate on the next playthrough.

Prize: Life Enforcer (Gadget: Restores 50% of HP), (From Quest: Retina-mounted Spice Injector (Trinket: Reduces cooldown of all items by 15%).



The next transition!

The Krakalaka Ruins Dungeon starts off with one of each super-beast that must be killed. Hiding behind walls while your pet attacks can be a decent defense. Tight corridors make the initial aggro difficult -- use bombs, which don't seem to be blocked in the restrictive way that the Fingerang is. The Satgat and Bamli, thankfully, are Level 2s.


Hide behind a wall to avoid attacks.


Attacks:

• Primary Attack: Slow Laser which moves around the floor lazily.
  
• Primary Attack: Tri-Laser: three beams from the body which rotate in clockwise OR counterclockwise direction.
  
• Primary Attack: Minions which move around the screen and shoot lasers directly below themselves.
  
• Primary Attack: Hewgo jumps around the arena.
  
• Next Stage (80% Health): Rocket Towers which inhibit movement.
  
• Next Stage (80% Health): Semi-triangular stop bombs.

Strategy:
As with your earlier encounter, use the same strategies. This time, Hewgo stars off with ALL his previous attack patterns from the get-go. (See Savanna: Hewgodooko for strategies.)

At around 80% health, Hewgo brings in two more types of attacks. Firstly, the Rocket Towers, which have a halo of orange sparkly stuff, don't seem to cause any damage. However, they do inhibit movement severely, so avoidance is recommended.


Rocket Tower at top (with the orange ring around it), and Semi-triangular stop bombs at center.


The Semi-Trangular bombs float out from Hewgo's body, and then stop, creating a danger circle underneath. When it glows bright red, they explode! As always, when in a mass of red circles, (and with all that's going on, there will be tons!), use your Dbot to become invincible for a few seconds.

Though the area is tight, Hewgo should be no problem after you learn his attack patterns.

Prize: Blood Bomb (Gadget: Bleeds enemies for 250% of your DPS), Optimized Gamepad (Trinket: 15% chance to boost run speed on breaking resources).

General Tips & Tricks not listed elsewhere:

Carry a Bed in inventory. (Note: it must be placed on a floor). There are some materials & creatures only avilable at Night -- plop down a bed to instantly change! (And heal to full at the same time.)

These super-helpful towers aid you along the way, and persist through death. Color indicates the type of buff:

• Red: Slow
  
• Orange: One-hit Resource Mining
  
• Yellow: Large Fishing Schools
  
• Green: Speed Boost
  
• Blue: Flying
  
• Fuchsia: Health Regen

Place signposts to easily find resources when they respawn:

• Large groups of similar monsters
  
• Dirt Piles (I use the Water Drop symbol)
  
• Clusters of growing things: ground items, trees, rocks, plants
  
• Clusters of Fishing Holes

As soon as you move to a new biome you'll need to decide what to move. In reality, you don't actually need much. Take these essentials:

• The last crafting station you made. (The highest level one).
  
• Food/Potion preparation station
  
• Bed
  
• All PETS!
  
• Some flooring

When you move, you'll be using all-new materials, so the old stations will be useless. If you do happen to need something, you can always beam back to the other biomes with ease.

Make sure you settle in an area next to a transporter or the biome-transport stone. For the real RPers, you can always craft multiples of stations so you can have everything at your disposal in each biome. The exception is pets: only one of each is hatchable.

Many pet upgrades, (especially the Epic ones), require essences from the biggest and baddest monsters. Unless you want a challenge, consider waiting on upgrading your pets until you have much stronger gear -- especially if it's a pet that you are aren't using.

Rare "stuff" can be more easily located with either one of the two last pets you will come into contact with:

• Gulanti: increases your chance to find Recipes, Eggs, and Legendary items by 150% on a fully upgraded pet.
  
• Gallum: increases you chance to encounter Rare & Epic monsters by 150% on a fully upgraded pet.

Tip: The Gallum is a poor fighting pet. If you need a stronger pet, (like your Vomma, hint, hint)... Take your Gallum to the area you want to hunt monsters, walk around a bit -- rare monsters will be much more prevalent. Then, warp back to your base to collect your Vomma... the same monsters will still be there!

The key is to have the Gallum equipped when the monster generation takes place. Great for hunting rare essences.

Note that potions other than simple HP restorers, (the ones with number amounts), are unique, so keep track of the ones you use & need. For example, the health-regen elixer that lasts 20 minutes is only craftable from the Savannah-level cooking station. Similar ones for increasing run speed, pet attack rate, etc. are also unque to each station.

This same rule also impacts Trinkets & Gadgets -- each one provides a unique benefit, and there really are no direct upgrades, so examine each station closely to craft items which suit your play style!

Use the blue buff tower or a Mini Dirigible gadget to fly over land & water. You can float over water indefinitely -- use this to explore large lakes. When the gadget buff runs out, you will continue flying and only come down when you touch land.

This game is filled with a lot of humor -- don't rush through it, so you can enjoy your time!

I hope this guide was useful to you! Enjoy Crashlands!