Card Hunter

Card Hunter

212 ratings
Card Hunter: Guide to The Game
By Kayell
A guide on card hunter that doesn't discuss only party contents. It discusses the basic context of the game for any noob to read about.
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Basic Information
Welcome to my guide on the game Card Hunter!

I noticed that there were no actual guides on the game Card Hunter, so I decided to make my first guide for this extremely addictive card based RPG. I aim to make this guide cover most of the basic information on the game.
Creating your Party
Creating a party is probably the most important descision you will make in this game. There are a total of 3 races and 3 classes. Each race dictates how much health and movement speed your character will have, and each class is vastly different and has it's own role in the party.

Let's start with races.
There are three in total, each having a parallel between health and movement speed. Dwarves have slow movement but high health, elves have high movement but low health, and humans are just in the middle. It's important to take into consideration the race of each character you choose, as each race is better at one than another.

Next, the classes.
The three classes are(In order of appearance): warrior, wizard and cleric. The warrior excels at melee combat, and is supposed to distract enemies while the wizard casts ranged attacks and be supported by the cleric. The wizard is the only class with ranged attacks (with some exceptions). The wizards job is to cast ranged spells, that very from melting armor to burning foes or dealing damage. Wizards are one of the most important assets in the party, as without ranged attacks enemy magic users will pose a serious threat. Finally, a clerics job is to support their allies with heals and buffs. A cleric could potentially turn the battle around, with either a well-placed buff or heal.

Generally, each class has a preffered race.
For instance, a dwarf excels at the warrior class, and an elf excels at the wizard class. A race is not the best as a certain class, however, and your choice depends on your playstyle. A dwarf warrior, elf wizard and human cleric is generally balanced, a full dwarf party is more defensive and a full elf party is more swift. The minimum health you can achieve is with an elf wizard, and the maximum is with a dwarf warrior. Choose wisely, as after the tutorial characters will cost in-game gold.
Card Info
A card has about 6 parts to it.
The first part is the name, displayed at the very top. Next is the cards basic info, displayed between the picture and lower half of the card. This displays the type of damage and where the card came from. The card also has a picture, which is probably visible to anyone. Next is the cards effects displayed in the big box at the bottom. This displays information on the card. The bottom left of the card displays the roll required for the card to take effect or teh amount of damage the card deals or heals. This varies from card to card. The bottom right displays the range of the card in squares.

This game has different types of cards.
The card types are as follows:

Red: Red cards are attack cards. These are used to deal damage to enemies. One of the most important cards in the game, with the blue card.

Blue: Blue cards are movement cards. These are used to move your character around the board. One of the most important cards in the game, with the red card.

Green: Green cards are block cards. These cards can block all damage but must succeed a roll first, displayed in the bottom left corner of the card.

Gray: The gray cards are armor cards. These prevent damage, and sometimes require rolls. Certain cards automatically block damage, but the total is usually less then roll cards.

White: White cards are support cards. These include buffs and heals. A cleric should have alot of these in their deck.

Black: Black cards are debuff cards. These can range from decreased block chance to increased inflicted damage. Have as little of these in your dack as possible.

Purple: Purple cards are spells that have neutral effects. They can be cast on allies or enemies, and can either help or harm them.

Orange: Orange cards are cards earned from skills. These are always helpful, and are very useful in combat.


Next is the cards effectiveness, displayed by the color of the plaque behind the cards name. The rarities are as follows:

Black: A black plaque means the card is bad. It is only sometimes useful, for instance testing an enemies defenses, but otherwise these don't have too much use.

White: A white plaque means the card is not bad, but certainly not good. these cardsare usually pretty mundane and have no effects on them. If they do, they're pretty bad.

Bronze/Copper: A bronze or copper plaque means that the card has some use. They are good cards to have, but aren't the best out there. These usually have effects.

Silver: A silver card almost always has an effect. These carsd are very useful and you should have quite a few in your deck.

Gold: A gold card is very useful. They are nice to have especially at low levels, as they are great cards with little or no reason indicating they are bad. They do still have their weak points, however.

Green: A green plaque means that the card is perfection. A piece of equipment only has about 1 or 2 cards with a green plaque. These cards are extremely effective, sometimes over ruling other cards effects.
Card Abilities and Attack Types
There are many abilities that cards use.

Push: Push a character a defined number of spaces.

Block: Block a defined amount of damage if a roll succeeds.

Step: Move a defined number of spaces.

Teleport: Move a defined number of spaces. You do not have stop moving while passing an enemy.

Burning: At the start of a new round, the character affected takes a defined nuber of damage.

Penetrating: Damage ignores armor.

Slide Back: Move an enemy in the direction you attacked it.

Unblockable: Damage goes through blocks.

Block Magic: Block magic attacks.

Block Projectile: Block ranged attack.

Fly: You can move through blocked terrain and don't have to stop moving over rough terrain.

Erratic Damage: 1-2 gives a laser malfunction card, 3-6 adds that damage. (Only found with laser cards)

Attack types don't affect the attack much. It is solely for the purpose of balancing very powerful attacks.

Certain armor cards have immunity to certain types of damage, like a alime being immune to bludgeoning.
Equipment
Equipment builds your characters deck, literally. The equipment you put on your characters affects the cards they have in their deck. For instance, you can equip your wizard with a staff of flames and give them some cone flame spells. Some equipment requires power tokens. There are two types, blue and yellow. You get your first blue power token at level 5, and the yellow ones after level 15. Equipment is based completely on your playstyle. Your dwarf warrior would probably make good use of stabbing attacks, your elf would prefer step cards and your human gets some pretty rad team assist abilities.
Dealing with Certain Cards
This section lists common enemy tactics and ways to avoid them.

Armor: An example of an enemy that uses lots of armor are metal golems (Tin, copper golems). A good way to deal with this is using armor melting cards. This removes armor from opponents. Another good way to deal with armor is with extremely high damage attacks. Armor can only block so much damage. If the armor requires a roll, use cards like bad luck to decrease enemy rolls. Another strategy is to use penetrating attacks, which ignore armor. Dagger weapons and some swords have penetrating cards.

Blocks: Blocks are always annoying. A good way to deal with blocks is to surround enemies and attack the back of them, making them turn around and letting another ally attack. A different way is to use hard to block attacks like spark attacks. Another strategy is to use low-damage cards, like weak strike, to draw out the enemy and see what type of block they have. You might even get rid of it, as most block cards are unkeepable.

Acid Sprays: Acid sprays can be dealt with the clerics cleansing presence abilities. If you are facing enemies without a cleric, wait until the enemy sprays its acid, and then move.

Reach Weapons: The infamous trog uses spears, which are incredibly annoying. There are multiple ways of dealing with this, one being using reach cards against them. Another strategy would be to corner them into a wall with a high-health character (Dwarf warrior comes to mid), and beating them to death with melee attacks. Finally, take advantage of the wizards spells and rain fire on them. Hopefully, you'll be in a position where they can't reach you.

Wizards: On multiple occasions, I have run into wizards that long-shot the party to death while their minions blocked the way. An easy counter would be to blast them with your spell, however this would result in a very dangerous magic duel. Another would be to use your fastest character to dart between cover, and either draw them out or close in for a melee strike. Finally, you could just use armor and tank the wizards spells like a boss while the rest of your party closes in.

Comment on what I should add.
Conclusion
I hope this guide helped. If there are topics you want covered, comment below.

Thanks for reading my guide.
46 Comments
YouAreMad 30 Mar @ 9:43pm 
This guide is so generic. I faced pvp and got ruled by every single player. Maybe some tips on which cards are good? Or also maybe how to achive them? It seems I am only gettin useless cards over and over again from chest, as an example I never found any card that give a "green" one
fmj 25 May, 2021 @ 2:27pm 
great!
Daetras 20 Jul, 2020 @ 6:05pm 
@Josemomo2411 to play co-op campaign you and your friends must complete the first adventures and unlock the Keep. Once done, just one of you must open the chat, look for the other friends' names, click on them and invite them. Once done that too, just choose wich character you'll play and then choose the adventure to play
Josemomo2411 20 Apr, 2020 @ 8:20am 
i need to know; how to play "co-op campaing"?
:steamsalty::steamhappy:
Toki 10 Apr, 2018 @ 6:56am 
should probably make a quick note at the end(or start) of all this to tell newbies when they can sell equipment because im fairly new and have a relatively packed collection of unwanted stuff lying around
EX.落花時節又逢君 9 Apr, 2018 @ 12:39am 
ok
Kayell  [author] 19 Mar, 2018 @ 10:03am 
The oldest card is in fact the card that has been in your hand the longest. I don't think ties are possible; cards are always drawn in sequence and (as far as I know) never in unison. Therefore, the card farthest to the left is most likely the oldest card in your hand.
battlezoby 16 Mar, 2018 @ 12:41pm 
What specifically is your "oldest card"?

My best guess would be the card that's been in your hand the longest, and in the very likely [/b] event of a tie, probably the one on left, or maybe one picked randomly.

But that's just a guess: Anyone know specificlaly what the "oldest card" (or oldest armor, etc) is?

Thanks! :orb:
DoubleReel 14 Nov, 2016 @ 12:32pm 
dang
Kayell  [author] 14 Nov, 2016 @ 12:07pm 
I don't think there is a way to get rid of saves. The only way I can think of is to create a new profile entirely.