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• **This guide is currently being revised, so I apologize for any missing information. I'm working to get it cleaned up as quickly as I can, as time allows :).**
  -Lambda

In this visual guide you will see where the armored strong points and weak points on many of the vehicles in Squad are. Armor strength is the main focus of this guide -- things such as tracking a vehicle, damaging the engine, and ammo racking shots, while occasionally mentioned, aren't the main focus. There will also be tips on where to shoot an enemy vehicle if you have to engage it head-on instead of its rear or flanks.

The pictures you will see were made using the transparent damage models as a guide. I decided on using the full in-game model since that's what you'll be seeing out there in a real match, not the transparent one. It helps to memorize certain features the actual models have that the transparent ones don't.

• Please note that vehicles and factions not yet added are not covered in this guide.

Memorize this image.

It illustrates the armor values on any given vehicle, and determines how much damage a projectile will do when it hits.

Blue = Strongest armor
As strong as it comes; you'll have to rely on either a Main Battle Tank round, ATGM (Anti-Tank Guided Missile), or multiple Heavy AT rockets to do much damage to this armor rating**.

Green = Strong armor
It will take multiple explosive projectiles to damage, and it is not vulnerable to Heavy Machinegun (HMG) rounds

Yellow = Average strength armor
It provides okay-ish protection but is especially vulnerable to AT rockets. This armor and below are also vulnerable to other weapons*

Orange = Weak armor
A good target for engagements if you can get it.

Red = Weakest armor rating
Red rated armor is the prime target for any engagement, along with what is technically the worst "armor" rating...

Black = No armor
It's like it's wearing nothin' at all...

About Yellow/Orange/Red rated armor: Aside from AT rockets, Yellow armor and below is vulnerable to the following weapons/vehicles:

-M2 Browning .50 cal HMG (emplacements included)
-Dshk 12.7mm HMG (emplacements included)
-NSV/Kord HMG(s)
-BRDM 14.5mm main gun
-BTR-80 14.5mm main gun
-BTR-82 30mm main gun
-MT-LB 30mm main gun
-Bradley/Warrior/LAV main gun(s)

Do not engage Blue rated armor with 14.5mm main guns -- in terms of damage you'll only be scratching the paint.

Heavy Machine Guns will not do as much damage to red/yellow/orange rated armor on Tanks and some IFV's (like the Bradley)

Other notes:
Many of the turrets on vehicles in Squad have Blue rated armor, which as mentioned above protects the vehicle from serious harm when faced with explosives. This does not, however, mean that you should avoid targeting Blue rated turrets. The turret, along with other parts of vehicles, all have specific health values. If damaged enough, these parts become broken and (mostly) useless until they are repaired, even if the overall health of the vehicle is still intact. The damage to a turret can range from the gunner losing stabilization to being completely unable to move the turret in any direction.

It is possible, and advisable, to break a Blue rated turret and either disengage or flank around to the side or rear for a kill. One other thing to mention is that hitting frontal Blue rated armor with an ATGM is not at all a waste of ordinance -- it does do significant damage. However it often takes two or more ATGM missiles to kill a vehicle with Blue rated armor, instead of the 1 it typically takes for a well placed side or rear shot. The difference between 1 and 2 here could mean victory or a trip back to the spawn menu.

Deflections and Penetrations:
There are some visual cues that denote how your shots on enemy armor are being received. For example, if you shoot at an enemy vehicle and notice your shots are producing green/yellow sparks with no smoke upon impact, that means that your shots are not penetrating and are actually bouncing off the armor being shot at. This is indicative of your main gun either being underpowered to do damage to the armor or hitting it at an angle that causes deflections no matter what. This does not necessarily mean your main gun cannot defeat the vehicle you're engaging, just that you need to aim at a weaker part of the vehicle.

But how do you know if you're doing damage and not deflecting? Easy -- a damaging or otherwise penetrating shot produces grey/black smoke upon impact. Engine hits are also noticeable by how there will be copious amounts of sparks flying everywhere upon impact, along with a very loud and distinctive audio cue that sounds like firecrackers.

Deflection

Note the yellow sparks

Deflection

Note the green spark(s)

Penetration

Note the smoke

Range:
The distance and angle you engage a vehicle at plays a role on whether a shot will penetrate or bounce. For example if you're in an APC or IFV and are engaging another APC/IFV at extreme ranges (1000 meters and above) it is entirely possible that you will not do damage to the other vehicle, even if you're in a stronger vehicle and hitting a relatively weak spot. Close the distance and this ceases to apply. However this does not apply to tanks, which can easily engage and knock out vehicles (and other tanks) at extreme ranges.

Engines:
One seemingly intentional design choice by Squad's developers when it comes to some vehicles is to put razor wire over where the vehicle's engine is. Note that razor wire isn't on all vehicles, only some -- typically IFVs or APCs. If you want to disable a vehicle's engine, aim for the razor wire. The smoke from a damaged or destroyed engine will severely limit the view of a vehicle's gunner even if their turret isn't damaged or broken, and also may prevent the vehicle from being able to turn in any direction. The enemy crew's options at that point will be to run back to a repair station, jump out and repair, or angle the vehicle so the gunner can see better -- often at the cost of exposing their vulnerable side/rear armor.

With V.2 released there are some new vehicles for the British as well as INS factions. The white toyota looking insurgent vehicles are all Red rated by virtue of being just regular civilian cars with ordinance mounted in the bed. This will pose no problem for any vehicles or infantry.

The UK is different. Much like all the Canadian vehicles (and the MEA's T-72S), the transparent damage models in Jensen's Range haven't been updated to show their strong and weak points. It's this spot:



It has looked like this for many updates now, despite the addition of numerous new vehicles and playable factions. If you read a section and notice the strong/weak points aren't listed then it's because they haven't been added to this spot in Jensen's Range. I will only be able to list where I think the weak/strong points are.

When OWI updates this part of Jensen's Range I will update the vehicle's information accordingly.

What It Looks Like

• Front:
  
• Side:
  
• Rear:
  

Armor Values

• Front
  
• Side
  
• Rear
  

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Don't let the values fool you, the T62, being a long outdated tank, is very weak to every other modern tank. Still, it can kill you if the gunner knows how to use an old rangefinder without laser assistance.

Front:
Side:
Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
The T-72's most glaring weakness in a head-to-head fight is the main cannon mantlet (the square area around its turret). While this is a near universal weak spot in all the other tanks in the game.

Hitting here is one reliable way to damage/kill a T-72 from the front. Accurate gunnery here is a must, since a shot too far to the left or right will almost always deflect.

The BMP-1 and BMP-2 are largely the same, but there are a few differences.

Insurgents, Militia and MEA get the BMP-1 which has an older Malyutka ATGM missile and a small 73mm cannon. The Russians only get the BMP-2 which has a 30mm autocannon and a more modern Konkurs ATGM. Keep in mind that only the MEA's BMP-1 offers stabilization for the gunner. Neither the BMP-1 or 2 offer laser range finding.

Both BMP models have the same values:

Front INS/Militia/MEA/RU:
Side INS/Militia/MEA:
Rear INS/Militia/MEA:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The top of the frontal sloped armor is weaker than the bottom slope on both. Disabling the turret with repeated hits to the ring is also an option. In addition, the tops of both BMP's are exceedingly vulnerable to AT. If you're on a downward slope to give your gunner better gun depression on a target, be aware that you're highly vulnerable to getting 1 hit KO'd from a HAT or MBT round.


If facing off against the BMP-1, an unorthodox (and risky) strategy is to get as close as possible to it -- the BMP-1's 73mm projectiles have an arming distance, as does its ATGM rocket. If you're close enough then neither projectile will detonate since it didn't travel far enough to arm. This tactic will also work for the BMP-2's Konkurs ATGM, but only the ATGM. It will not work against the BMP-2's main autocannon which can engage any target from point blank range.

The BMP-2 ATGM also has a hitbox that transfers damage to the turret and hull (10MM of armor). One last thing to mention is that you can reload the ATGM for both BMPs immediately after you shoot one; just don't neglect aiming the one in the air while the next one is being loaded.

Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The open driver's window is weakest to AT and HMG fire. A well aimed HAT rocket to the open window can 1 shot the BRDM.

Note: The difference between the BTR-80 and BTR-82 is that the 82 has a 30mm autocannon turret.
Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Unlike the BRDM the open driver window doesn't do extra damage, so just ignore that. When fighting the BTR-82, focus on the 30mm cannon's turret ring. Hitting here is the most reliable way to do damage or kill the BTR when going head-to-head in an IFV or APC. An AP round from a MBT can potentially one shot the 82 if hit here.

Just keep in mind that if you're fighting the BTR-82 in a Stryker or light vehicle with a 50. cal CROWS, your HMG will likely overheat and need a few seconds to cool down before you manage to pump enough rounds into the turret ring to kill it.

In the case of the BTR-80, aiming at the small area around the 14.5mm gun is your best bet, since the BTR-80 doesn't have the rather large turret ring the 82 does.

An unorthodox method to fight the BTR in a Stryker is to ram into the front of it at full speed. The Stryker is, oddly enough, quite good at flipping over BTRs. This, of course, should be a last ditch option and not the go-to strategy for all your fights with BTRs.

Front:
Side:
Rear:
The MTLB, surprisingly enough, has Blue rated armor on the back. This doesn't pose much of a problem for tanks with AP rounds or for ATGM missiles, but it may very well be a waste of a rocket for LAT and HAT troopers.

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Ah yes, the MTLB. Affectionately known as the "Sh*tbox" it gets this nickname from its boxy shape, poor overall armor and woefully underwhelming armaments against other armored vehicles. The armor on the MTLB is weak on the front. In fact, when facing it from the front, the lower sloped armor is Red rated, so aiming there will especially hurt when hit.

Front:

Side:


Rear:


I don't know its armor values since it wasn't added to the Jensen's Range transparent armor area. However light vehicles like this are usually Orange rated all around. If it gets a full transparent damage model in Jensen's Range I'll update accordingly.

Frontal engagement tip(s):
If it's an open top Tigr just shoot the guy on the gun. If it's a remote operated Tigr and you only have small arms then you'll want to hide, or get your AT to hit it. If you're on an HMG or in a vehicle with an HMG on it, aim for the windows -- HMG's like the M2 Browning .50 can easily penetrate the windows and kill the guy on the remote controls.

The gunner on the RWS variant is sitting in the back cab. If looking at it from the front, he's behind the guy sitting in the front left seat.

One additional note on the RWS turret:
Most of the Russian made vehicles have some English lettering to let you know whether or not your main gun is stabilized or not. The letters "STA" are often at the bottom or side in the gunner sight, and they light up when you activate gun stabilization.

The Tigr is different, or rather more realistic, in that it has only Cyrillic lettering. But if you don't know how to read Russian, how can you tell if your RWS turret is stabilized or not? Check these two images to find out

Front:

Side:

Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
The venerable Humvee makes its return as an Insurgent vehicle. Despite the armor not being listed, it is safe to assume it is Orange rated all around as opposed to its Red rated civilian armored counterpart. Unlike the other Insurgent light vehicles, the windows on the Humvee are immune to small arms fire. However the windows are easily penetrated by heavy weapons and AT, and the gunner is exposed in the open top turret, so don't get too cocky when driving this around. The black armor makes it stick out in desert environments, so spotting it won't be hard for enemies either.

Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The armored technical is actually somewhat difficult to deal with if you're an infantryman. Aiming at the driver's viewports on the front and side of the cab is what you want to do, but doing it while it's driving at you can be hard. Its Red rated armor makes it easy to deal with if you're in any vehicle with a main gun that can beat Red rated armor (which is most of them).

This techie is a favorite among Insurgent sappers who do Vehicle Borne Improvised Explosive Device (VBIED) attacks, right behind the motorcycle. By itself with no IED however, it's only a threat if you don't shoot whoever is manning the HMG or SPG mounted in the truck bed. Shoot the guy manning that and it ceases to be a threat.

The MEA uses many (but not all) of the same vehicles that the other REDFOR (Insurgent, Militia, RUS) factions use, so you can look at those vehicles earlier in this guide.

The MEA's T72-S is the same as the Russian T-72, but with different paint and ERA panels.

Front:
Side:
Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
Like the Russian T-72, the turret mantle is a solid spot to aim for. The T-72s' ERA plates make hitting the ammo compartment behind its front right very difficult.

Front:

Side:

Rear:



Frontal engagement tip(s):
This vehicle doesn't have a transparent model as of writing, however it's really not worth mentioning anyway. The occupants are completely exposed, so small arms fire alone can deal with the occupants. It probably just has Red rated armor.

You may be wondering, "But what about technicals, logistics/transport trucks, and armored vehicles with a ZSU Anti-Air gun on them?"


I didn't mention them since the Ural ZSU has absolutely no armor and the BMP/MTLB AA platforms have the same armor value as their other variants. The AA guns in particular are easy to deal with, since all you need to do is aim at the exposed gunner on the top of the vehicle to kill him and disable it. Doing so is very easy even to an infantryman with no AT capabilities.

Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Like all other tanks, the area right around the tank cannon isn't as strong as the rest of the frontal armor. The Abrams also has the most exposed turret ring of any tank currently in the game.
The other disadvantage is the Abrams' large turret, namely the poorly armored sides that are quite easy to hit if you catch an unaware Abrams from either flank.

Front:
Side:
Rear:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
I used to say "Don't" but V2.0 changed things, if only slightly.

A frontal engagement with the Bradley is highly risky even in a MBT. Its main gun will make short work of most enemy IFV/APC's, and its 2 TOW missiles make it more than capable of killing a main battle tank. Russian (and, for now, only Russian) IFV's like the BTR-82 and BMP-2 got upgraded AP shells for their autocannons in V2.0. Whereas before they fired Armor Piercing rounds, now they fire Armor Piercing Composite Rigid (APCR) rounds. What's that mean? It means that in terms of damage you can actually do some respectable damage to Green/Blue rated frontal armor as opposed to just scratching the paint. Even so, you'll still want to flank the Bradley or blow its engine so the gunner can't see you. Just because you can engage a Bradley from the front doesn't mean you should.

Be aware that if you're playing in a BMP-2 on the MEA faction your main gun still uses the old non-upgraded rounds that will mostly just bounce off the Bradley's front armor. A Konkurs hit to the turret or engine will be your only chance of survival in a frontal engagement.

However, there is one spot on its side that can yield great results if you've got an ATGM or skilled HAT trooper at your disposal.
See that grate looking thing on the side armor? See the backpacks right next to it? Aim there. Behind those backpacks, within the hull, is the ammo compartment. A penetrating hit there can cause significant ammo rack damage.

Much like the BMP 1 and 2, you can reload the Bradley's TOW missile immediately after shooting the first one. In fact, the Bradley's reload for the TOW is faster than the BMP's. If your target is far enough away, you can have the second TOW ready to fire the instant after the first one hits (or misses) your target.

Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Stryker's biggest advantage as an APC is its Blue rated frontal armor. Your best bet is to either unload into its .50 cal CROWS HMG to break it or shoot the razor wire to hopefully blow its engine and blind it while your driver flanks for a side or rear shot. If you have a shot on the Stryker's right side it's advisable to aim for the highlighted black grate, which contains the CROWS' ammo. It's easily identifiable by how it juts out when looking at it.
It's a small area and can be difficult to hit, but it's doable.

Another possible strategy is to aim for the flat armor that's inbetween the upper and lower frontal slopes; it's the black rated "grille" you can only see front on. Aiming here does do good damage, but it's not always so easy in an actual game. You or the Stryker may be at an odd angle or elevation that doesn't allow you to hit it reliably. It's also exceedingly difficult to hit if either you or the Stryker are on the move, which means your shots will possibly just bounce off the frontal armor if you miss.

Front, Side, and Rear:
It's Orange rated all around, except for the open top turret.

Frontal engagement tip(s):
If you're dealing with an open top MATV then all you need to do is aim for the the guy manning it.

If you're dealing with a CROWS then it's potentially trickier depending on what you've got on hand. The CROWS gunner on the MATV is sitting behind the driver.
Small arms will not be able to do anything. A well placed AT rocket to that part of the vehicle can kill the CROWS operator. Armor piercing heavy weapons will also do the job.

A .50 caliber MATV CROWS is fully capable of killing everything except MBT's. The same can be said for all other light vehicles with a .50 caliber CROWS/RWS system. Do not discount it just because you're in a vehicle with bigger guns; it's imperative you deal with it if you see it.

Front:
Side:
Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Challenger's biggest frontal weakness is its very large driver's window.
Repeated hits to this driver's window is one way to kill a Challenger. Another is to repeatedly hit the lower yellow rated armor below the Challenger's front headlights.

Front:
Side:
The Warrior pictured here is the variant with extra side armor added. The added armor is Green strength while the Warrior hull beneath it is Blue strength.
Frontal engagement tip(s):
Much like the Bradley, a frontal engagement with the Warrior in anything other than a main battle tank is risky even with the newly upgraded munitions for RU IFV's. Breaking its turret is a good bet, but mobility is a better bet. The Warrior's lack of turret stabilization makes anything other than stationary shooting an unbelievable pain in the rear end. Take advantage of this if you face off against the Warrior.

By staying on the move the Warrior crew will have to decide whether to stay still so the gunner can get hits on you, or constantly move to have their best armor facing you; this means the Warrior's gunner will have to constantly re-orient his aim since his gun sight whips around whenever the Warrior moves.

Front:

Side:

Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
Thanks to the rapid firing 40mm autocannon and turret stabilization this upgraded Warrior offers, fighting this vehicle front on in an APC/IFV is suicidal. This vehicle's firing rate cannot be understated -- if the CTAS gets a bead on you it will utterly shred your vehicle in moments. Breaking the turret of the CTAS or ambushing its flank(s) with AT is absolutely vital if you're not in a tank.

The CTAS' main drawback is that it has a very limited ammo pool that it can exhaust in one or two engagements before needing to re-arm. But be warned, a competent gunner can completely mop the floor with any armored vehicle you throw at it in those one or two engagements. I can only assume that since it is just a Warrior IFV but with a better turret that it has the exact same armor values as the non stabilized base variant.

For armor values, check the Warrior IFV's.

Front:

Side:

Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Scimitar is a recon vehicle with the same main cannon as the Warrior IFV (not the CTAS). Like the Warrior IFV, it doesn't have turret stabilization either. So what makes it different than the Warrior? Speed. It is a very fast vehicle that can reposition quickly to flank enemy vehicles. But, as in real life, it sacrifices protection to gain this increased speed. It's very possible for a BTR-82 or BMP-2 to essentially melt the Scimitar in a frontal engagement thanks to the Scimitar's weaker armor and the upgraded ammunition the BTR and BMP recently got.

The Scimitar is also one of the weakest vehicles to Heavy Anti-Tank launchers. One hit from a HAT shot, even to the frontal armor, is enough to instantly kill it every time.

I would have to guess that the front and sides are Yellow rated and the rear definitely being Red.

Front:
Side:
Rear:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Bulldog has excellent front and side armor, along with decent rear armor. The real threat is the open top turret M2 Browning. Hitting that with HMG fire or explosives will kill anyone on it and deal enough damage to hurt or kill the Bulldog. Rear armor hits with HMGs or explosives will also suffice, but the very large turret is the best target to go for.

The Bulldog also has a Remote Weapon System (RWS) variant. The RWS only has an M240 LMG. This means that in vehicle-on-vehicle combat the RWS is utterly harmless to all but unarmored Technicals.

Infantry going up against the RWS Bulldog should be on notice however, since its Blue rated front and side armor along with metal slat protected rear make it a true force to be reckoned with.

Front:

Side:

Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
Since the damage model hasn't been shown yet I can only assume that this vehicle is similar to the MATV and TAPV in terms of armor -- Orange rated all around; and the windows being Red rated and easy to penetrate with heavy weapons. So where to shoot? Well if you run into the LPPV open top with two M240's then the obvious target would be the exposed gunners manning them.

But what if you run into the CROWS LPPV? Well not to fear since he's somewhat of an easy target as well. See, the CROWS operator is sitting right in the front seat next to the driver. This being a British vehicle means he's on the right side.

Aim at that window with appropriate weaponry and you'll kill him easily, thereby disabling the CROWS.

Front:

Side:

Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Leopard, despite having a turret that will bounce almost all shots, has a very exploitable weakness in head-to-head combat -- its ammo rack. Unless the Leopard is hull down, it is exceedingly easy to hit its ammo rack (the highlighted area in red).
2 to 3 hits from any AP tank shell, HAT rocket, or ATGM in this spot will ammo rack the Leopard and kill it.
But as for its specific armor ratings I'm not sure. Tanks in this game can have very unique armor strong/weak spots, and without a transparent model to look at I don't know where they are. The Leopard with the metal slats on its side armor is not just an aesthetic add-on, it actually reduces AT rocket damage if it hits the cage.

Leopard with slats:

Front:

Side:

Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
Yet another vehicle I don't have a transparent model to base strategy off of. All I do know is that the LAV 6's main 25mm cannon is a terror. That cannon coupled with the LAV 6's very high speed makes it almost as good as the US Bradley. The only thing that makes the Bradley better is its 2 TOW missiles. Break the turret or shoot its engine on the lower right to blind the gunner. The smoke from a broken engine on the LAV 6 will almost completely blind the gunner.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Canada's Coyote recon vehicle is the same as the Australian and USMC LAVs, with superficial differences. While the USMC and Canadian LAVs don't have an armor model on Jensen's range, it is safe to assume all they have the same armor values as the Australian ASLAV. The upper frontal armor and turret ring are good spots to aim for in a frontal engagement.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Canadian LAV III comes in 2 variants -- one equipped with an M240/M2 .50 cal combo, and one with two M240's.
.50 cal RWS

M240 RWS


While I don't have the damage model to look at, it stands to reason the LAV III has the same damage values as the US Stryker. It is, after all, just a Stryker with a different coat of paint and a crewman operated M240 MG. It even has the same vent on the vehicle's right side.


Much like the UK's Bulldog APC, one is only a threat to infantry while the other is both an infantry and armor threat.

If you run into the LAV III with 2 M240 MG's then you don't have to worry if you're in a proper armored vehicle. Insurgents or Militia in techies obviously aren't as lucky. But if you spot a LAV III with the .50 cal RWS, then you obviously need to treat it the same way you would a US Stryker. It can kill other armored vehicles with that .50 HMG. Hit the flanks, or aim for the flat grille on the front. Check the previous section on the Stryker for the (likely) armor values for the LAV III.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
It unfortunately doesn't have a transparent armor model, however out of the 3 variants this APC comes in, only one has an RWS turret. The other 2 are open tops which any infantryman can deal with. The RWS variant doesn't have stabilization which will make it hard for the APC's gunner to be accurate on the move. The engine block is front and to the left. The M113 has always had weak armor, so side shots and rear shots are likely to be the best spots to go for.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
Aim for the windows to kill any crew inside, including the man operating the remote operated .50 cal. He sits on the right side towards the back.
Failing that, just unload into it until it pops. Vehicles like this never have more than Orange/Yellow armor to them.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The LUVW's armed variants are both open top, so shoot the guy on the turret to remove the threat. Its armor is also exceedingly weak, so any AT aimed at any spot will do significant damage. Additionally, the windows aren't bullet resistant at all, so small arms fire will kill the occupants. Depending on the situation and positioning of the vehicle, shooting the guy on the turret through the windows may be an easier option since the only real armor to speak of is around the gunner outside.

Front:

Side:

Rear:


Frontal engagement tip(s):
The LUV, like the MEA's Simir, likely doesn't have much armor to it. Also like the Simir, the LUV's occupants are completely exposed.

Front:
Side:
Rear:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
The Australian M1A1 is, armor wise, the exact same as the US M1A2. Fight this tank the same way you'd fight an M1A2, ideally going for its very exposed turret ring.

Front:
Side:
Rear:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
The ASLAV's lower frontal sloped armor is the strongest, so don't aim there. If looking at it head on, the engine is on the left. Hit there to blow the engine and smoke out the gunner's sight.

Hits to the turret will also yield good results due to the ASLAV's poor armor there, especially the sides. The ASLAV has the same problem the Abrams does, in that it has a fairly large and exposed turret ring. Aim for the turret ring of the ASLAV the same way you'd aim for the BTR-82's turret ring.

...unless of course the turret's hitbox remains glitched out and doesn't count hits, which has happened since V3's release. If you notice your shots magically phasing through the LAV with no damage, switch to the turret itself and not the ring.

Front:
Side:
Rear:
Frontal engagement tip(s):
The PMV is orange rated all around with red rated windows you can penetrate with heavy machineguns and rockets -- same as virtually every other 4 wheeled light vehicle. If you're fighting a non-RWS PMV, and instead it's the one with 1-3 machineguns on the roof, aim for either the guy(s) on the gun(s), or the flipped up hatches protecting their rear because they are red rated.

If you run into the remote operated PMV, aim for the guy sitting in the front left seat. Just like the UK LPPV, the gunner is sitting there.

Figuring out the PMV's aiming reticle:
The PMV's gunner sight is simple (and utterly confusing) at first sight. In fact it's so simple they forgot to add numbers to the aiming reticle. Consult the following images to figure out how to properly aim this vehicle's RWS system.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The USMC Abrams is the exact same as the ones the Australians and US Army have. At first the only difference was that the USMC's Abrams had the name of a Squad content creator or some other nickname on the barrel at random. The US Army's M1A2 also got this added on afterwards.


Check the US Army or Australian section(s) for the tank's armor values. As always, aim for the turret ring for a fairly quick kill.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
I don't know this vehicle's armor values since (yet again) the transparent model wasn't added to Jensen's. I am sorry I can't give you good advice on a frontal engagement with this behemoth of an APC. Rear shots, however, seem to yield very good damage.

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The USMC LAV appears at a glance to have the same armor values as the ASLAV which was added to the game first, and the Canadian Coyote. I don't know this for sure since none of the Marine vehicles got armor models in Jensen's Range, however it is a fairly educated guess. Check the ASLAV under the Australian Defense Forces section for how to deal with the USMC version. The TL;DR version is to aim for the upper frontal armor or the turret ring.

USMC LAV Gunner Sight:
The LAV's gunner sight isn't too much different than the ASLAV's, however finding the laser rangefinder's zero point can be tricky your first time. Consult the following images to see where the zero is

Front:

Side:

Rear:

Frontal engagement tip(s):
The USMC humvee has 3 variants - one without doors or a back trunk, and two with .50 HMGs. The one without doors or a trunk is easy to deal with since all you need to do is shoot the occupants. The other two are like all other light vehicles in terms of protection. Since there's no armor model I can only assume it's orange rated all around with red windows you can penetrate with HMGs and AT.

The Humvee with the RWS .50 has the gunner sitting behind the driver, so shoot there to disable it.